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TRAVELING IN BRAZIL |
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KATRINA AND THE AMAZON DROUGHT
Perhaps we should remember some radical words expressed by an eminent climatologist, some years ago: «Climate is an unpredictable wild beast, and we are poking at it with sticks» (W. Broecker). I am not trying to suggest that all those natural catastrophes are just a direct consequence of man’s action. But who dares to say that there is no connection? Who dares to say that the infuriated El Nino and all these disasters have nothing to do with modern civilization and their impact on natural eco-systems? Who dares to say that the destruction of the Amazon forest has nothing to do with what is happening? Paul Lefebvre, a researcher running a monitoring station in the Amazon, says that the ocean waters in the North Atlantic are warmer than usual, which tends to encourage evaporation, creating storm conditions towards the south of the United States and Central America. And that this warming also sets up high pressure systems further south, in regions such as the Amazon, causing less clouds and providing less rainwater… More: in future terms, present drought in the Amazon can reduce substantially the growth of trees, which may prevent the forest's ability to soak up the carbon dioxide that our cars and industry send to the atmosphere. Something that can intensify climate change; Amazon can become part of the problem of climate change, instead of part of the solution. Unfortunately, the international press and political powers are not picking up and reporting the problem in its true dimension. The ways these issues are presented, are clearly sketchy. The International press reproduced the words of President Lula of Brazil, about the calamitous Amazon drought. But… what about the regular destruction of the forest? And the causes of the waters warming in the north Atlantic? In the case of the Amazon, we tend to forget that there are daily fires in the big forest. That Amazon continues to be deforested at a steady pace. Every day, even outside the burning season, fire envelops the jungle. Everyday, a piece of the Amazon disappears. And that isn’t sufficiently contested or publicized. And, still less, its impact in other natural disasters is normally omitted. The Press report only the spectacular and sensational to satisfy consumer demand. Hidden causes are regularly forgotten. Without famous celebrities stressing the source of our evils, we tend to forget them. And, unfortunately, the Amazon rainforest has no more a Chico Mendes hero.
CRUISES IN THE AMAZON
There are different ways of visiting the Amazon rainforest. If you are pressed for time, or if you think you would not like to live for four, five, six or more days in a beautiful and calm, but repetitive world of water and trees, then avoid a long river trip. In that case, a quick flight to Manaus (a city in the very heart of the Amazon, 1,000 miles upstream from the river mouth) is preferable. Once there, you can model the tour to your tastes. You can enjoy several short local cruises, you can explore some rainforest treks, you can swim and fish, you can visit local people living in the forest (the «caboclos»), you can get a good grasp of what the rainforest and the river are… And you can even play golf. This option demands a stay of, say, 3 or 4 days minimum. It all depends on what you want. Another alternative when visiting the Amazon involves a longer tour on the river – typically a trip from Belem (at the mouth of the Amazon) to Manaus, or the inverse. This cruise can be made on a transatlantic cruiser, and includes a great range of cities and ports outside the Amazon. Tours of two weeks are very common. You just need to cost it, and to book the cruise early enough (there isn’t a regular transatlantic cruiser route to the Amazon, and so you should plan the cruise well in advance). More adventurous travellers may prefer other kind of boats and travel for a long river cruise. There are, in Belem and Manaus, local tourist riverboats and regular river vessels (for local passengers and goods) making the trip between the two towns. And these two kinds of riverboats – the tourist and the regular ones - constitute the best way of experiencing the full mood and the immensity of the Amazon (and, in the case of travelling in a regular vessel, the best way to have contact with the real people, and feel their friendly mood, their way of facing the life). But you should also ponder the possible downsides of these options. One of them is the uncertain duration of the trip: it can be four days, if the weather conditions and the currents and other factors are favourable, but it can also be extended for one, two or more days, which may clash with your travel plans, flights, etc. Another possible inconvenience involves the regular vessels (not tourist river boats): the toilet facilities in the boats are rather improvised, which can be disagreeable; also, you can be forced to sleep in a hammock, surrounded by local people. So, think well… In any case, do not also expect to see profuse fauna on your cruise. Birds and monkeys tend to hide themselves in the treetops… You will sense them, but most of the time you will not see them. What you will see all the time – and feel deeply in your heart - is a different world… a calm green water world. A world with moments of exceptional beauty, but also a repetitive one, with its endless elements succeeding minute after minute, for days on end...
A world in the antipodes of ours, involving another pace, other elements: one that makes us feel small, and awakes thoughts about our place in the universe, and the meaning of our life and our values.
For more information about the Amazon, see:
So, if you are planning a tourist or business trip to Sao Paulo, consider using one of its many golf greens. Any reputed hotel will give you the answers you may need for access to local greens. But... just because Sao Paulo is prominent in the Brazilian golf panorama doesn’t mean that there aren’t other opportunities to play. The number of Brazilian golf greens is increasing rapidly. You can even play golf in the middle of the Amazon basin. If interested in grasping the grandeur of the immense rainforest (without forgetting the golf), think of going to Manaus, an unexpected city, born from industrial dreams, but more and more, a big travel hub to the surrounding rainforest. Once there, besides local cruises on the river and visits to the ecological parks, the exploration of forest treks, or visits to the «caboclos» settlements, there is also an opportunity to play golf. Another major travel attraction in Brazil where there is a golf course is Iguassu, in the mid south, near the frontier with Argentina and Paraguay. Iguassu boasts the world’s biggest waterfalls, a natural phenomenon far beyond Niagara Falls («poor Niagara», said Eleanor Roosevelt, when facing the place). The local Bourbon Iguassu Golf Resort hotel has excellent greens. Rio de Janeiro also has several top greens not far from its southern beaches, and just some minutes away from Copacabana or Ipanema. Also in the Rio de Janeiro region, you can find golf courses in Buzios – the Saint Tropez of Brazil –, and, in the opposite direction, in Angra dos Reis, a luxury resort, with majestic greens, connected to a top local hotel: Hotel do Frade Golf and Resort. These places are both about an hour’s drive from Rio. Much more to the south, there are the Florianopolis greens. Florianopolis is known as a top international place for sea sports (swimming, diving, and mainly surfing), but it also has excellent golf greens and clubs. And that’s not all, of course. Because it is so big (a country with an area similar to that of the USA) the number of Brazilian golf greens is growing steadily. Amongst the recent ones, we would emphasise a number of courses in Bahia. Bahia is a northeastern state of Brazil. A state with an insurmountable friendly and musical people, with a set of exotic traditions, and a long coast of thousands of miles, hiding hundreds of beach paradises still largely undiscovered outside Brazil Bahia encompasses cities such as Salvador, Costa do Sauipe, or Praia do Forte, all with modern golf courses which have been built to satisfy recent demand and the real estate boom (Bahia is also a paradise for real estate bargains…).
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BARGAINS IN A TROPICAL PARADISE
The temperatures are extremely pleasant all year round (without the excesses of some tropical climates), the people are extremely friendly, and the real estate prices – for vacation properties or for rental income - are true bargains by North American and European standards… Bargains of how much? Well. It depends and varies, of course. There are modest properties between 30.000 USD, or 40.000 USD. And double, up to 100,000 USD, for luxury… Bargains, even so… And where is this place? The place is a vast zone of the North eastern coast of Brazil (the longest tropical beach coast of the world). It’s located mainly in the Brazilian state of Bahia, near small towns such as Praia do Forte, Itaparica, Ilha da Comandatuba, Costa do Sauipe, Porto Seguro, and others nearer the city of Salvador. And the downsides, you may ask? And the safety issue? And are the people as friendly as mentioned before? Yes. Brazilians are a peaceful and extremely friendly people. Brazil doesn’t have terrorist activities or political violence. Brazil is a very big country, and as a whole offers safe conditions for investing and travelling. Safety problems – namely robbery – are in the big cities… Safety problems are extremely rare in Bahia State. Even robbery and petty crime are largely unknown in most of Bahia. You will notice some beggars in Salvador da Bahia, but in most of the coastal places – and we are speaking of a coast with many hundreds of miles…- even this problem is not sensitive. You just need to test. Go to Brazil, go to Bahia... See the conditions, see the stock and the prices of local real estate. If you want to benefit from current prices, do not wait too long! Present prices will not last for long. There is a growing international interest in Brazilian properties. The natural conditions offered by the coast of Bahia will promote tourism and real estate to the tops of international demand. It’s just a question of time. As mentioned above, think of places such as Porto Seguro, Itaparica, Praia do Forte, Costa do Sauipe… They are small villages with an extremely safe and friendly atmosphere, where you will also find nearby luxury resorts, a large supply of properties, and natural conditions that you will not find elsewhere.
So… book a flight to Brazil. Brazil – and Bahia especially – deserve your visit.
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THE HUGEST CONCENTRATION OF ANIMAL LIFE IN AMERICA
Imagine a place with 650 species of birds, 260 species of fish (such as the catfish, weighing up to 260 pounds), an unknown number of species of butterflies, and caimans, anacondas, capybaras (the largest rodent in the world), agoutis (other rodent), tapirs, peccaries, jaguars, pumas, giant anteaters, ocelots, giant otters, armadillos, several species of monkeys, including the capuchins, and dozens of other unusual species of animals. This world is not fiction. It exists, it shelters the hugest concentration of animal life in America. It is called the Pantanal, and is located in Brazil, 1,000 miles from Sao Paulo. By its own right, Pantanal ranks very highly in the adventure tourism business. The concentration of animal life – especially big birds: macaws, parrots, toucans, egrets, crakes, eagles, owls, oropendulas… - is unique in the world. But… you should also understand the nature of Pantanal, and the reason why it is largely unknown… Pantanal doesn’t have any shopping malls or air conditioning. It’s a place of mud, most of the year. It’s not necessary to face a high discomfort to visit it, but some discomfort is unavoidable. The Pantanal is a place with too much water and mud, and plenty of mosquitoes (insect repellent – lots of it - is indispensable) where trips may be difficult, and may have to be made on horseback, or special trucks and jeeps, or by boat. Pantanal is a place for those who love nature and are ready to make some sacrifices to see it at its best. If you are a bird and nature lover, and if you like adventure travel, you will love the Pantanal.
Avoid the rainy season (from December to March). It’s not the ideal period to travel, unless you just want to have only a very partial view of Pantanal. It’s much better to visit the Pantanal in the dry season (July to September).
Those are objective and statistically verifiable phenomena. But I would dare to add another one: Brazil also has the world’s most genuine set of musical traditions and expressions. An assertion too bold? Undoubtedly. And a risky one, too... I should explain myself better. I do not contest the dominance of anglo-american music, or the prominence of some higher expressions of it. I accept that. In a certain sense, if compared to north-american music, brazilian music is just a minor player in the world music panorama. When I place the Brazilian music at the top of the world rank, I am selecting some particular expressions of it. And I am considering the way Brazilians live their music and express it. Brazilians love music, with an intensity unknown elsewhere. In places like Salvador da Bahia the music and dance are a regular popular explosion. Until midnight on certain days of the long summer, the music doesn’t stop, with people and vendors mixing with bands and street musicians everywhere. For Bahianos (the inhabitants of Bahia) and Cariocas (the inhabitants of Rio) any occasion is suited for music. You may ask: and the creativity, and the artistic themes? Where are the higher expressions of that music? Do they exist? Surely. And by that I am not pointing to some major samba themes (there are major samba themes), or to the Bossa Nova of forty or fifty years ago. I mean present day music, top quality in the world (though not necessarily at the commercial top). Some of the present day brazilian music is highly elaborated, demanding attention, with lyrics having a very broad importance (its lower international visibility is due to the language in which it is expressed: Portuguese).
There are plenty of new highly inventive brazilian composers and performers. And Brazilians love their musicians and composers. They are their gods. Gods with names like Maria Bethania, Gal Costa, Ivan Lins, Ivete Sangalo, Elis Regina, Djavan, Daniela Mercury, Elba Ramalho, Marisa Monte, Milton Nascimento, Rita Lee, Adriana Calcanhoto…
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